Friday, 5 August 2011

From Russia with Love

So, it's been a week already in Russia and I haven't yet touched a QWERTY keyboard.  This is partly due to laziness, but also due to a distinct lack of internet  cafes.

Anyway, here we are in Vladisvostok, in Russia's Far East.  This is a grey city (inhabitants c.600,000); a military port town surrounded by exotically named bays (Golden Bay, Ulysses etc) which are filled with warships.  

We arrived on the 3rd August after a long night flight from Moscow.  The Russian airline (Transaero) was filled with Russians - Muscovites?  We were not sure. It is certainly interesting to ponder why people come here...  

A jolly taxi driver took us to our hotel.  The drive was long (about an hour and a half) and bumpy (most of the roads are still under construction).  He delighted in teaching us the Russian word for everything we passed.  We did our best to be jolly back, but in reality we just wanted to sleep.  

He even made a detour to show us the sea (Sarah was convinced he was driving us to be robbed, but I tried to take the positive view, for once!).  

It then rained incessantly for around 48 hours.  We tried manfully to stomp around the city in our waterproofs but they were sopping in 20 minutes.  Our spirits were low and not really lifted by Soviet-block style Hotel Vladisvotok, the base for our stay.  It was hot as hell in the room and our 'sea view' was spoilt somewhat by the neon flashing 'STRIP' signs tempting us down to the swimming pool and sauna, a modern annexe to our hotel.  Sarah got all excited when she heard there was a swimming pool, only to be told that  'it is not for you'...

Today, we woke and NO RAIN.  Our excitement was palpable, sullied only by the inch thick sea fog.  Clearly today was the perfect day for a ferry ride.

We went to Russky Island, a famous military island about thirty minutes ride away.  It's popular with fort fans.  We elected just to stay on.  

Luckily the mist lifted and we were rewarded with occasional views of the hilly city.  It's definitely industrial and not really that pretty, but it has some sort of charm none-the-less.  

It must get so cold I cannot imagine living here in winter when the sea partially freezes.  

Mockba or Moscow was different.  We stayed in a bustling, central neighbourhood to the north-east of the main centre within what is known as the 'Golden Ring' - basically the main metro line (like the circle line in London).  We arrived on Sunday, hot and tired after our first experience of a night-train from St Petersburg.  We boarded at 10.45pm and got excited as the minutes ticked by... we were not going to have to share our 4-berth cabin.  That is until we were joined by two Russians - a Professor of Physics, Vladimir, from the Russian Academy of Science (part of Moscow State University) and Jane a business lady and trained geneticist also from Moscow.  Both had been to conferences (although not the same one as it turned out) and both spoke perfect English.  I was touched by their friendliness and tips for our impending train journey.  

In the morning we woke (well, I say woke but that there wasn't much sleeping).  Vladimir likened it to being rocked to sleep like a baby, my experience was more like a constant jarring through my body all night.  I'm sure I'll get used to it!!

Vladimir was a gentleman.  He took us to the Metro, bought our tickets and then took us to the nearest Metro station for our hostel.  What a kind man and most welcome after our long trip.  

I'm going to sign off now, as time is up and we have to prepare for the next leg - Vladivostok to Khabarvosk tonight.  

Bye for now.